Singapore's Ethnic Enclaves

Singapore is very westernized and commercialized, so much so that I often feel that I am not having much of a cultural experience. A few neighborhoods, however, hold on to a bit of old ethnic charm. So along with the parks and the tourist attractions, we put the following neighborhoods onto the McL. to-do list (which we kept on a whiteboard in the living room and checked off accordingly). 

Little India adds a splash of color to the often uniform Little Red Dot (one of Singapore's nicknames).  The street stalls display rich hues with flower necklaces, produce, and textiles. Though you know you are still in Singapore, because it is still relatively clean and orderly. We weaved in and out of stores in the narrow lanes (not always easy with a toddler in tow). Both men and women alike stopped to fawn over C.; I had never seen so many guys seem genuinely struck by a toddler's cuteness. For lunch, we had an inexpensive and satisfying vegetarian meal at Komala Vilas. Besides eating and window shopping, the McL. also ducked into the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, while I took watch of the stroller and shoes. Our last stop was Mustafas (like an Indian version of a Super-Walmart), which OD had insisted was a must-do. C., however, was not impressed by the vast array of cheap merchandise and after only one floor declared it was time to go home. She promptly passed out in her stroller and we lugged her back onto the metro. 

 A lot less crowded than the real India I imagine

The McL. exiting the temple barefoot.

With the majority of the Singaporean population of Chinese descent, of course there is also a Chinatown. It can seem like a bit of a tourist trap, with stalls hawking cheap souvenirs, but at least it has more character than the mall. C. though was not as popular there as she was in Little India, as the shopkeepers didn't seem to appreciate a toddler pawning their merchandise.We had planned on having lunch, but at this point in the trip, we had all lost our appetite for non-western food. For a snack though, my sister and I did try some fresh dragonfruit juice. The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple was also on our agenda, and though I should have learned from my last visit wearing a miniskirt and tank-top, I again was sleeveless so I took one of the sarongs provided to drape my bare shoulders. C. though quickly grabbed it away to wear herself and I could not get her to give it back. As my sister's shirt at least half-covered her shoulders, I took hers instead. C. kept us amused parading around and adjusting her stolen sarong.   

C. measuring ancient currency outside the Coin and Notes Museum.

C. trying to figure out how to wear her stolen sarong.

The Arab Quarter was my neighborhood of choice for my "girl day" with my sister. We headed to Cafe Le Caire for a delicious Mediterranean lunch and ice tea with fresh mint leaves. We then wondered around the textile and rug shops, eventually coming to Sultan Mosque. It must have been a busy time of day for the mosque, because they were quite a few people milling about and a number of parked motorbikes. On Bussorah street, I found a cute denim dress on sale and was surprised it actually fit (usually when I try on clothes at a boutique shop here, the proportions are all wrong). My sister was supposed to get herself a souvenir, but couldn't decide on anything, so bought scarves for mom and in-law instead. Before heading back from our toddler and men-free day, we stopped at a cafe — not my usual Starbucks for once — and my sister ordered what all the locals were having, a sweetened coffee drink with milk. It was great having some quality time with my sis and being able to talk freely without boys or babies around. If only it could be a regular thing!